Runway Report: Paris Fashion Week Spring 2012--Christian Dior--Photos + Full Runway Video!

Pretty Dior

Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2012

Paris Fashion Week Spring 2012 continues and up next is the Christian Dior Spring 2012 Collection. Designer Bill Gaytten (John Galliano's right hand for over a decade)--who was tapped as Galliano's replacement after his escandalo--showed his first pret-a-porter (ready to wear) collection for the famed house. How did he do? Well, according to the editors and press, pretty good. The reviews are in and at least, they were better than what he received from his Dior Haute Couture show several months ago.

Dior Creative Director Bill Gaytten

Now, I'm sure you have been keeping up with all the "Who's Going To Design For Dior" DISH, Gaytten was picked as the "replacement" but word has it that his bosses feel it's a "transitional" position. It has been rumored that possibly Marc Jacobs might take over the Creative Director position. I've read this, so I'm sure Bill has too. It it said that contingent to taking the job, Jacobs would need (among other things, MULTI-MILLIONS!) to bring his entire team as well. Makes sense. But where does that leave Mr. Gaytten. Who knows. As a result of this "I don't know how long I will have my job" situation, Gaytten and his design team, did a just-very-nice job. No earth-shaking editorially-KRAZEE garments here. Just pretty clothes. Very "Lady Dior". Very sellable, which should make the execs happy. But let's be honest, the House of Dior doesn't really care if the clothes sell. It's ALL about the perfumes, sunglasses, and purses darling.

Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2012

But back to Gaytten's collection: These were dresses, jackets, skirts, that one could actually SEE in the the Christian Dior boutiques--as opposed to what Galliano did--most of that was Runway-only (which made for great WWD covers and lots and lots of press--good or bad--which in the end, sold more perfumes and sunglasses!). For Spring 2012, Gaytten showed the famed Dior Bar jacket, the late 40's/early 50's style dirndl and pleated full skirts. The Pretty lady-like sheath dresses. Reds, bold prints, bolder sequins and very Upper Class French Aristocrat styles: First Lady of France Carla Bruni-Sarkozy. Totally.

Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2012

Capelet dresses were important, especially in light and airy gauze's, chiffon's and organza's.

Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2012

In the end of the Christian Dior Spring 2012 Runway show, supermodel Karlie Kloss (far right) sauntered out in a beautiful black lace and chiffon high-necked gown with a sheer single-layer floor-length skirt. As she turned around, all you could focus on was, well, her cheeks--her derrière. It was perfect, of course. Hello, it's Karlie Kloss. But many an editor couldn't help but wonder if showing her "you-know-what" as the FINAL vision one saw in his show--was a subliminal sign to his bosses...

Click Below for the Full Runway Show of Christian Dior Spring 2012:

Runway Report: Paris Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011--Dior!!!

Dior Haute Couture...sans Galliano:

Fashion Darlings: Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011 Fashion Week began this past Monday and ended yesterday (I know, only three days!). So, naturally, I am here as your "Fashion Servant" to give you the highlights and my "Nick V. Two Cents" on what the top designers offered in terms of these rarefied hand-made $100,000+ clothes on the catwalks. These clothes are then either shown or lent to stylists for their famous Hollywood clients to wear to BIG Red Carpet events, given to fashion editors to feature in their magazines, or hopefully, ordered by that very small list of multi-millionaire clientele (estimated at just 400 in the entire World!) from Dallas to Dubai, Mumbai, Beijing and Shanghai.

First up: Christian Dior Haute Couture:

Cirque de Couture: Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

This show, of course, was one of the most--if not THE MOST-anticipated show of the season. Obviously since, it was the first Dior Haute Couture showing following John Galliano's unceremonious departure and firing. Lots was expected of Bill Gaytten, who has taken over (for now) as the head of the Dior Design Team. He's been with John Galliano & Co. for over 20 years so if any one can sense what Galliano would have done and what direction he would have gone in, it would be him. Did he live up to this? It seems the reaction was mixed:

Here's a quote from Tim Blanks of style.com, of what he thought of the show and the clothes:
On the evidence of today's first Dior couture show without John Galliano, what happens is a misjudged effort to impress an alien thumbprint on an aesthetic that, for better or worse, is one of the fashion industry's most clearly defined......
Then came Karlie Kloss, dressed as a Pierrot, sad clown all alone in the spotlight as the soundtrack failed and glitter showered down. But the stardust missed her by this much. And that felt like some kind of crazy cosmic metaphor.
Ouch, I think...

Bronzed Twisted Princesses: Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

The show had three distinct sections. It began with lots of color, prints, stripes, all very "Cirque de Dior". Fall/Winter for the Dior Couture ladies will not be a dark and somber one. It also looked very 80's Neon/Maripol/Stephen Sprouse/Memphis Movement. The Dior Bar Jacket showed up several times, but somehow it's still didn't have the same effect when Galliano did his magic with it. The pleating, twisting and intricate draping that the Dior Couture House of petite mains are known for, was all there. But there seemed to be something missing...

Valley of the Dior Dolls: Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

The second section was a "Caftan" late 1970's "Disco" section and to be honest, after looking at the photos and the video, this was my favorite part of the show and I almost wish Creative Director Bill Gaytten and his Dior Design Team would have done a complete collection of Caftans, almost as a cleansing of the Galliano aesthetic. I just wished the entire show was ONE STRONG Statement a la "Flower Power Dior" (Fall 2010 Collection), "Dior Goes Equestrian" (Spring 2010 Collection), or "Tutankhamen Dior", but instead this one had several and they were rather incohesive. It should have been all "Caftan Valley-of-the-Dolls Couture!".

Petticoat Clowns: Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

Of course, in the end, there were Ball Gowns. Huge, entrance-making ones. This was supposed to be the "Grand Finale" but again, these out-of-control gowns fell flat--especially on a runway that was not wide enough for them (what happened there?). The gown above is the one Tim Blanks was referring to--the (somewhat sad) Pierrot Clown Gown. It is definitely difficult to carry on after Galliano and only time will tell, if he will succeed. Don't miss the designer (and his assistant Susanna Venegas) uncomfortable bow at the end of the video...

Click Below for Full Video of the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011 Show:

Paris Pret-a-Porter Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2011: Dior, Galliano

A Fashion Giant Has Fallen...But The Show Must Go On...

Atelier Bow: This is who took the Final Bow at Dior Fall/Winter 2011

As we all know by now, a Fashion Genius has fallen. We are all in shock over the news of John Galliano, his dismissal and more importantly, the inexcusable behavior that prompted it shown in THAT video. Yes, the Video Seen Around The World. So sad, that John Galliano's legacy could be reduced to this. When one Google's "John Galliano" for years to come, "Fashion Design Genius" is hardly the first thing that will come up. Yet, he did it all to himself, as the video suggests. Bridget Foley wrote an AMAZING article titled "A Dark Pall Over Paris" in last Wednesday's WWD which summed it all up beautifully and eloquently.

John Galliano

As Paris Pret-a-Porter Fall/Winter 2011 Fashion Week is getting under way, all of this DRAMA looms like an Elephant In the Room. And it was no more evident when the House of Dior was to unveil its latest Fall/Winter 2011 offering, all designed by Monsieur Galliano. But, as they say: The Show Must Go On. So here, I post the Dior Fall/Winter 2011 as well as the namesake Galliano Fall/Winter 2011 Collections...all sans John Galliano.

Dior Fall/Winter 2011:

Fox Huntin': Dior Fall/Winter 2011

Style.com's Tim Blanks, who was there to review said this: "Overtaken by events, this ready-to-wear show ended up as a swan song, but it was a pale testament to the extraordinary work the ateliers have done for Galliano over the past 14 years. The proper tribute would ideally have been one of the Dior couture shows, where the extravagant drama of the designer's soaring imagination was evenly matched by breathtaking workmanship."

King's Speech Fur: Dior Fall/Winter 2011

There were Equestrian themes, 1920's/1930's silhouettes, all very "Queen Mother in The King's Speech... for 2011", wearable suits, lots of LUXE furs, silk chiffon and lace gowns and pretty cocktail dresses to satisfy all the Dior lovelies. Every time I go into an actual Dior boutique, I am always surprised by how there's NOTHING of that Galliano UBER CRAZY on display--you walk in and what do you see? The purses, sunglasses, shoes, accessories. Well, of course, that's what sells! And then way in the back, the clothes: Elegant well-tailored chic suitings, simple yet sexy cocktail dresses. This, also, was what was on display in this--John Galliano's final collection-- for the House of Dior.

Snake Fur Luncheon: Dior Fall/Winter 2011

Sheer Lady Dior: Dior Fall/Winter 2011

Baby Doll Dior: Dior Fall/Winter 2011

Cocktails at Plaza Athenee: Dior Fall/Winter 2011

Dior Fall/Winter 2011 Edited Runway Show Video:

Galliano Fall/Winter 2011

Colbert Meet Gable: Galliano Fall/Winter 2011

The John Galliano Fall/Winter 2011 Collection was shown, and yes, without its Designer. It was a 20-piece showing. It was all very 1930's--a theme Galliano loves. Suits that looked elegant but yet were meticulously--and purposely--tattered. Draped and folded jackets that would be at home in a Claudette Colbert/Clark Gable film and a Kimono gown that just needed a spiral staircase in Bel Air. Most of it looked like it came from a closet of a long-gone Hollywood Screen Siren/Goddess. Gorgeous yet very sad at the same time. Just like John Galliano's career.

Tweed Funeral: Galliano Fall/Winter 2011

Cocoon Diva: Galliano Fall/Winter 2011

Hostess Gown: Galliano Fall/Winter 2011

Angelic: Galliano Fall/Winter 2011

Galliano Fall/Winter 2011 Final Model Walk Video: